Living with the Yamaha Tenere 700 After One year

It’s been one year since I sold my trusty Tiger 800 and bought a very slightly used 2022 Yamaha Tenere 700. At the time, T7s were hard to come by. I was on a waiting list at my local dealer with no idea when a unit will show up. A lucky scan of Facebook Marketplace revealed a mostly unmolested blue example with only 500 miles on the clock.

Seeing that the bike was showroom perfect and with the market being what it was, I paid the owner the retail cost of $10,200. Avoiding dealer costs, ended up saving me enough dough to outfit the bike with off-road rubber, engine and chassis protection and luggage accessories. See below to see my choice of accessories.

The Backstory

So, why did I swap the excellent Tiger 800 XRx for the T7? In a word, off-road capability. My longtime riding buddy and track day partner, Tony Iannarelli bought his Tenere the season before and we ventured into places where the Tiger had no business being with its 19″ front wheel, soft street suspension and heavy weight. With plans for more adventures on the Northeast Backcountry Discovery Routes (NEBDR), a change was necessary.

Why the T7?

In about 2020, the moto-press chummed the waters with declarations of Yamaha’s Tenere 700 being the game-changer needed to advance the next generation of adventure bikes. As it turns out, they were mostly right. What makes the Tenere so special?

First, the T7 is a modern refinement of the KLR and DR650 dinosaurs and even attempts to bridge the divide between open class dirt bikes like the KTM 450/500 and the overweight, street-biased self-proclaimed Adventure bikes like the BMW GS, and Triumph Tiger.

Second, Yamaha engineered the Tenere to excel at tackling terrain where quarter-ton motorcycles have no business being. While the T7 is no lightweight at 450 pounds before accessories, the chassis makes up for its relative heft.

Third, the Tenere 700 is an really fun street bike. With the exception of the stock seat, I find the 700 more comfortable than my Tiger 800. The ergonomics and wind protection work great with my 5’9″, 150 pound human chassis. I wouldn’t hesitate to point the 21″ front wheel to explore distant horizons. Sure, it’s not my first choice as a highway hauler, but it’s surprisingly capable of freeway droning.

CP-2 Engine

The T7 is powered by an existing motor sourced from the awesome middleweight FZ/MT-07. My wife owned an MT-07 and it was a hoot to ride, mostly due to the light weight and snappy engine. The MT-07 derived cross-plane motor is a joy.

While not as snappy as the MT-07 iteration (the MT weights a good 50 pounds less), the 689cc CP-2 engine tracts beautifully, especially after some ECU tuning.

Fueling

Consistent with many previous Yamaha models I’ve ridden, the T7 suffers from jerky throttle response from closed-to-slightly-open throttle openings. This isn’t terribly noticeable when at normal street riding speeds, but becomes annoying at very slow speeds.

I especially notice this when descending rocky slopes that require the slightest bit of positive throttle to maintain balanced weight bias to keep the front wheel as light as possible to surmount obstacles. I ended up sending the ECU in to 2Wheeldynoworks for a re-flash to help smooth out this abruptness.

A Basic Bike

My 2022 T7 has no electronic rider modes or traction control and with a cable throttle, so no ride-by-wire here. All it has is ABS that can only be on or off. Compared with the Aprilia Tuareg, the T7 is completely analog. Sure, some rider aids would be nice, but I’m fine with relying on my own traction sense and throttle control to manage the bike.

Additionally, the Tenere has tube-type tires. Some argue that this is the better way to go for true off-road riding but I dread the time when I have to swap a tube in the field as opposed to plugging and going.

The T7 is a basic bike compared with the Aprilia Tuareg.

Tires

The bike comes stock with the impressive Pirelli Scorpion STR rubber. These tires are quite good on pavement and even in most of the rocky gravel conditions most people ride. But, the plan was to ride some rather difficult routes, I first mounted Mitas E-10s, which are great tires, but I ended up matching my friend’s choice and went full-on knobbie. The Tusk D-Sport rear and IRC TR8 front.

I get asked a lot about how the bike handles with these tires and I answer, great…for a knobbie. I’m able to ride twisty pavement at full pace in the dry and even in wet conditions. The bike is less stable than with the other tires, but not bad. And they wear quickly. I got about 3500 miles from the rear and about that much from the front.

And as you’d expect, they are loud at speed on pavement. The rear gets louder as it wears, enough that earplugs are necessary.

These inconveniences payoff with the dirtbike-like off-road traction. But, realistically, I could have gotten away with either the Pirellis or the Mitas 95% of the time. It’s just that last 5% can get pretty hairy without those knobs.

Mitas E-10 on the left is less aggressive than the Tusk DS or the IRC TYR8

Suspension

The Tenere comes with some decent stock forks and shock. Compression and rebound adjustments work pretty well. And the spring rates are just fine for my 150 pound physique. When ridden hard, the bike can wallow and chatter, but that usually only happens when I’m pushing it. I also notice some deflection over rough terrain that I bet can be eliminated with upgrades, but I’m sticking with the stock suspension for now.

Rear Brake

The rear brake is a weak link with the T7. Brake power got bad enough over the summer that it took all I had to get it to skid. I use the rear brake a lot, so it’s no surprise the pads were worn. New Galfer Semi-metallic pads improved the brake power significantly.

One of the first things new owners upgrade is the Camel rear brake pedal and brake pads. I haven’t done the pedal upgrade yet, but plan to.

Swingarm Geometry

One thing Yamaha did was design the chassis to locate the swingarm pivot point in such a way as to create anti-squat under acceleration. This presses the rear tire into the ground for more traction. But, it also makes it somewhat harder to do simple wheelies to loft over obstacles.

The T7 in its element.

It’s Not Really a Dirtbike

With that said, the T7 is not a dirtbike! The problem is that it feels like one…a really heavy one. More than once, I rode the bike into some situations where I was taxed in managing the weight. These big ADV bikes tractor up rocky hills quite well, but all that mass needs to be controlled when descending.

Yamaha did a great job making the package feel light and balanced. However, as many KTM owners will quickly point out, the T7 carries its weight up quite high making it feel like it can topple at any time. But, stand up and keep your momentum and it loses that feeling pretty quickly.

Also, when big ADV bikes start to go over, there’s no stopping them…just step off if you can. I had a nasty fall on a rather simple road when my front tire tried climbing out of a rut at 25mph. Not sure why it happened but distraction on my part played a role. The result was two broken ribs. Another thing about the top heavy T7 is that it is a bear to lift. It took Tony and me (with broken ribs) all we had to get it upright so I could ride it home.

When big adventure bikes fall, they fall hard and fast.

Seat Height

At 5’8″ and an inseam of 32″, I’m able to barely flat foot with both feet on level ground with the stock seat. But as soon as there is a slope, I really don’t have a foothold. It is just fine for all but the tough, rocky sections what require sub-5mph speeds and excellent balance…or paddle-walking. I tend to stand even through tough stuff, but I’m learning that there are times when sitting and using my legs and feet as outriggers isn’t a bad strategy. That’s when the eat height is too high.

Seat Concepts makes a low seat, which shaves 7/8″ off the height but sacrifices comfort. However, the SC seat is flatter and a bit wider which is usually a more comfortable shape. I don’t yet know if I will stick with the stock seat or not.

Upgrades and Accessories

Protection
  1. Crash Bars – SW-Motech
  2. Handguards- Barkbusters
  3. Engine case covers- R&G Racing
  4. Skid Plate- Moose/AXP plastic skid plate
The Moose/AXP plastic skid plate is a great option. Durable!
SW-Motech crash bars did a great job after I tossed the T7 down at about 25mph.
Luggage
  1. Sidecase racks- SW-Motech quick release
  2. Tankbag- Bags Connection/SW-Motech quick release tank ring
  3. Rear Rack- SW-Motech
  4. Crash bar bags- what I had around to carry tools, tubes, first aid, etc.
  5. Tool Tube- Twisted Throttle
Dryspec saddlebags on SW-Motech Sidecarriers and a BagsConnection tankbag doing duty as a tailpack on the SW rear rack. Note the tankbag tank ring. The tank bag I have is just a bit too large for standing off road.
Tires
  1. Rear Knobbie- Tusk DSport
  2. Front Knobbie- IRC TR8
  3. Rear and Front 30/70- Mitas E-10
  4. Stock Tires- Pirelli Scorpion STR
Mitas E-10s are a great choice for 20/80 use.
Comfort
  1. Heated Grips- R&G Racing
  2. Windshield Adjuster- Generic from previous owner
  3. Throttle Lock- Kaoko
  4. Phone Mount- RAM X-Grip
Other
  1. Mirrors- Doubletake Enduro– Adventure mirrors also available
  2. Rear stand Spools- R&G Racing– Can’t be used when removing axle
  3. Rear brake pads- Galfer Semi-metallic pads
  4. Air cleaner- Funnelweb prefilter
The Funnel Web prefilter replaces the stock snorkel. A mod necessary for full benefit from the 2Wheel Dyno Works ECU flash.

Top 16 Off-Road Riding Tips

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I recently returned from an epic dirt riding trip. But, instead of boring you with details about where I went and what I ate, I’m going to share some tips about how I survived the slimy, rocky, ascents and descents of the Rock House section of the Hatfield McCoy trail system in West Virginia.

smallrockhouse copy
Ken, Tony and the guys at Hatfield McCoy

It all started when a group of us from Tony’s Track Days arrived at the small town of Gilbert, WV to ride up and down some of the slimiest and rockiest terrain I’ve encountered.

Check out the video:

You’ll hear me talking while I slip, slide and bounce along the trails, because I am using Interphone brand Bluetooth communicators with my friend, Tony. I can’t recommend using communicators enough…it makes off road riding even more enjoyable and allows the person in the lead to warn about particularly gnarly hazards. I’m on a Kawasaki KLX250s.


Some hills are tough.

Why Do That?

To understand some reasons why I ride off-road (and why you should, too), you may want to read the blog article “10 Reasons Why Street Riders Should Ride in the Dirt” . Sure, riding off-road makes anyone a better street rider, but I also do it because it is challenging and fun, fun, fun.

I talk about “riding in the zone” as it pertains to street riding and even track riding, but off-road riding brings the zone experience to a whole new level of alertness.  Any significant lapse in focus could mean careening down a steep slope with the only thing stopping me from a long descent are stands of trees.

Slippery, Slimy Mud on hard packed rock.

Tips for Surviving Mud, Rocks, Hills and Other Off-road Encounters

I’m no off-road riding expert. But, I know enough to share some tips that can help you survive your next off-road riding experience. If you want to try an off-roading adventure but with a UTV, you may visit a local utv dealer to chose your new ride.

  1. Manage Your Speed: Nothing increases risk more than a too fast speed for your ability and/or the conditions. Keeping your throttle hand in check is fairly easy to do, but managing speed on a steep, muddy downhill trail is tough. The trick is to see the problem well before you get to it and slow down to a crawl so you aren’t trying to scrub off speed where gravity and almost zero traction create the equivalent of a slip and slide
  2. . Keep Your Eyes Up: We look down when we are scared or tired. The problem is that as soon as you look down, you’re unable to deal with the terrain that is suddenly under your front wheel. This problem compounds until you are so far behind what’s going on underneath you that you get more scared, look down more and eventually crash. This pertains to most athletic activities, including street riding.
  3. Use Momentum: When traction is limited, you must rely more on momentum. This means keeping your eyes up to see what’s coming and getting on the gas before you are on a surface that has little grip.
  4. Believe You Can Do it: If you hesitate, you will likely not make it up that steep incline. So, go for it! That said, avoid terrain that is over your head.
  5. Stand Up, Sit Down: It’s nearly impossible to ride an off-road bike well if you aren’t good at riding while standing. It’s also important to know when it’s best to stand and when to sit. In general, stand for any significant bumps so your legs absorb the impacts and sit for corners, especially corners with berms so you can load the rear tire for the drive out.
  6. Find the Center: Whether sitting or standing, you must find the spot where your body’s mass is located for optimum maneuverability and fluid control. This means sitting forward on the seat and standing so your belly is over the steering stem.
  7. Bent Arms: The bike is going to move up, down, left and right at great frequency. Yet, you must hold onto the handlebars and operate the controls while the bike is jerking around. Bent arms allow the bike to move as necessary and for your hands to still control the throttle and brake with precision.
  8. Counter-lean: This is something street riders have a hard time with when they first start dirt-riding. If you lean with the bike (or low and inside) then the bike will slip out from under you. The bike must lean to turn, but if you stay on top of the bike, your weight keeps the load pressing vertically to allow the tires to grip the terrain.
  9. Forget the Clutch: Forget using the clutch for upshifts. There is usually no time to go for the clutch lever when you’re accelerating out of one rocky, muddy mess into another one.
  10. Use the Clutch: On the other hand, you want to use the clutch to control drive as much as possible. By slipping the clutch you can stay in a taller gear to avoid excessive shifting and control your speed with greater precision.
  11. Use the Rear Brake: On muddy terrain, you’ll rely heavily on the rear brake. Skidding the rear tire is not usually a big deal, but skidding the front will quickly toss you on your head.
  12. Use the Front Brake: Yeah, I know what I just said, but when there is traction, you can (and should) use both the front and rear brakes when descending hills. This may sound tricky, and it is. But, sometimes you need all the slowing power available, just learn to apply the front brake carefully.
  13. Learn to Wheelie and Jump: Not so you can be a squid, but so you can get over fallen trees, big rocks. If you can’t wheelie, then at least learn to loft or bunny-hop over obstacles.
  14. Steer with the Rear: When you don’t have a lot of grip, trying to steer with the front tire is a bad idea. Instead, get the bike turned in the general direction, but get on the gas to prevent a front tire washout.
  15. Make sure Your Bike is Ready: It sucks to be stranded in the woods.
  16. Take Breaks: Off-road riding uses a lot of physical and mental energy. If you get tired, you will start looking down and your timing will become imprecise. Before you know it, you’re on the ground.
Fun and challenging!

Okay. It’s your turn. Please use the comments area below to share your favorite tips for riding rugged and muddy off-road terrain.

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10 Reasons Why Street Riders Should Ride in the Dirt

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A fun way to become a better rider.
A fun way to become a better rider.

You’ve probably heard people say that dirt riding can help improve a road rider’s skill, but can it really make you a safer and more competent street rider? The answer is yes.

1. Improved Traction Sense

One thing you'll learn is traction management.
One thing you’ll learn is traction management.

Managing traction is one of the highest priorities for any motorcycle rider, whether on street or off-road. Dirt riding provides ample opportunities to learn about traction management as the tires hunt for grip on unpredictable surfaces.

Having your motorcycle move around beneath you is disconcerting for street riders who are new to this sensation, but it helps you learn about traction management, including which inputs help and which hurt traction.

And this experience translates to street riding. Imagine yourself suddenly feeling your tires sliding as you roll over a wet surface or a bit of sand in a corner. Imagine your bike feeling like it is falling out from underneath you. Most street riders will panic, flinch and tense on the handlebars. This often makes matters worse.

With dirt riding experience, you are more likely to recover from a relatively minor slip instead of panicking and gripping the bars in fear. Previous experience can allow you to stay composed and relaxed so your inputs remain fluid, allowing the tires a chance to regain grip.

2. Clutch and Throttle Control

You're going to get dirty.
You’re going to get dirty.

Throttle, clutch and brake control become very important when your tires are skipping over tree roots and wet rocks or through deep sand and gravel. But, you may not realize just how important fine clutch and throttle control affects a street rider’s confidence.

By perfectly timing clutch release and throttle application, you manage lean angle, traction and direction control. This is especially noticeable when downshifting as you enter a slow turn. If you downshift as you begin to tip into a turn, you must feed the clutch out smoothly to avoid abrupt driveline lash that can disrupt traction and direction control.

3. Slow Speed Skills

Off-road riding typically includes a lot of slow speed maneuvering, which means that your sense of balance at slow speeds will increase greatly. Maneuvering slowly over rough or loose terrain requires steady, smooth power delivery. This often means slipping the clutch to control the power and prevent instability and unwanted direction changes. Yet another reason why masterful use of the clutch is so important for precise control of forward drive, both on and off road.

You learn slow speed maneuvers and balance.
You learn slow speed maneuvers and balance.

4. Balance and Body Position

Because a lot of off-road riding is done at slow speeds over uneven surfaces, maintaining balance is a constant issue. The technique for maneuvering any motorcycle at slow speeds is to counterweight so that the motorcycle leans independently of your upper body. Counterweighting keeps the center of gravity over the tire contact area to maintain grip when traction is low.

Riding a lightweight dirt bike means that much more of the steering is done with the footpegs and body. By positioning your body forward, rearward and side to side, you influence direction control.

You’ll need to learn to ride while standing on the footpegs to allow your legs to act as shock absorbers. This can be tiring at first, until you learn the proper “neutral” position that keeps your bodyweight over the balance point of the bike, usually over the front of the fuel tank, knees slightly bent and elbows out.

On the street, you use many of these techniques as you cross speed bumps, railroad tracks or when ascending or descending steep hills at slow speeds.

5. Throttle and Brake Steering

Another important thing to learn when dirt riding is how to use the throttle and rear brake to change direction by breaking the rear tire loose under acceleration or when braking. It’s scary at first, but once you learn these techniques, your confidence will grow quickly.

On the street, you will have a better sense of how the throttle can help “finish” a turn or how deceleration and brake force can alter your cornering line. Motorcycle dynamics are similar enough between lightweight, off-road bikes and heavy street bikes for this skill to transfer.

6. Improved Brake Control

The front brake offers the most braking power whether riding on or off road, however the rear brake becomes more important when riding in the dirt. When traction is low, the amount of brake force is minimized and load transfer that pitches the bike forward is reduced, which means that the rear of the bike remains more planted for more effective rear brake power.

Another reason to favor the rear brake is to avoid a front tire skid, which must be avoided if you want to remain on two wheels. Loose surfaces are unpredictable, so it’s best to apply more rear brake pressure and modulate the front brake to avoid a skid.

On the street, you learn that there are times when you favor the rear brake a bit more. Riding with a passenger and descending a gravel road are two instances that come to mind.

7. Improved Visual Skills

Off-road riding requires keen vision. One of the keys to a successful off-road outing is the ability to identify the best line through a rocky or sandy trail or fire road so that you find the best available traction. A common problem that new riders have is their inability to keep their eyes well ahead, scanning for the ideal line.

This translates directly to street riding. Nervous riders look down, which leads to higher perceived speeds, and more panic as hazards seem to appear “out of nowhere”. Eyes Up!

Fitness is a must.
Fitness is a must.

8. Better Fitness

Riding on the street can be tiring and can make you sore. But, that doesn’t mean you’re getting into shape. If you want to increase muscle tone and strength, get yourself off-road. The act of balancing a motorcycle over rough terrain is one of the best workouts you’ll experience. Bring a hydration system…you’ll need it.

9. Learn to Fall Down

You won’t likely become a texting teenager’s hood ornament when riding off-road, but there is still significant risk.

Even though crashes are usually less serious, the frequency of tip overs tends to be higher when off-road riding. Typical injuries usually consist of bumps, bruises and perhaps a torn ligament or broken bone if you’re unlucky. Because of these challenges, you should not ride alone without the help of someone to come to the rescue if necessary.

Learning to fall is not usually something I emphasize. Instead, I prefer to teach people how NOT to fall. But, there is something beneficial about being familiar with hitting the deck that can potentially help you if you were to crash on the street, such as trying to relax (yeah, right) or keeping arms tucked in if you tumble. Think of sports players who learn to fall without injury; that’s the theory. However, if you need professional information , consult with an attorney after a truck accident

 10. Gain a New Respect for Riding Gear

Whether riding on the street or off-road, it’s important to reduce the likelihood of injury and this means wearing protection. No sane person I know would hit the trails without full protection because prevention is better than calling Augusts car accident lawyers to help compensate your injury and treatment.  I’ve seen too many riders fall down and get a rock in the ribs or a stick in the chest to not wear full gear. Not to mention bruised ankles and nasty rash. And that is falling at under 20 mph. You know what happens if you were to hit pavement at 40 mph with inadequate clothing…not pretty. ATGATT, people.

There's nothing like being in nature while learning to be a better rider at the same time.
There’s nothing like being in nature while learning to be a better rider at the same time.

Get Dirty, Skillfully

With good skills, falling can be minimized. But for many, tipovers are a reality when riding off-road, which means you must manage the risks. Don’t take your safety for granted. Learn to ride well! Prepare your mind with an attitude toward reducing risk and protect your body with proper riding gear.

There is a lot more to learn about off road riding. Understand that just because you can ride a street bike does not mean that you can swing a leg over a dual-purpose bike and safely hit the trails. But, it is well worth the effort.

What are your experiences with how off-road riding helps your street riding?


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